36" Wall Cabinet, Double Door

Step 1

First, make up your sides by drilling shelf pin holes on the insides for adjustable shelves (I use a Kreg Shelf Pin Jig ) - it's much easier to do this now than after assembly - and drill 3/4" pocket holes facing the front for attaching face frames in later steps (I use a Kreg Jig for drilling pocket holes). For taller shelves, you would simply just cut the sides taller. For deeper shelves, you would simply adjust your plywood rip width.

Step 2

Drill pocket holes facing forward along front edges of top and bottom for attaching face frames in later steps (as done with sides). Drill 3 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the top and bottom and attach to the sides, using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. All pocket holes should be on the outsides of the cabinet and the inside of the cabinet should have no visible joints or holes.

Step 3

Attach back support inset at the top of the wall cabinet, hiding 3/4" pocket holes on back side. When you hang the cabinet on the wall, screw through this board into a stud in the wall. For additional support or heavy cabinets/contents of cabinets you can add a second support at the bottom of the cabinet as well.

Step 4

The back is not structural but finishes out the inside of the cabinet. It should not be used for hanging the cabinet. Use glue and nails to attach.

Step 5

Step 6

We used shelf pins for adjustable shelves, and cut the shelves 10" deep by 33-3/4" wide, and applied edge banding to the fronts of the shelves.

Step 7

We opted for a full overlay door using 1-1/4" overlay concealed euro face frame hinges for the doors.

Finishing

Sand all surfaces, starting with a medium grit and finishing with fine. Wipe off the dust, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, and sand smooth once dry. Apply primer if you're painting, then finish with your choice of paint or stain and seal with a durable clear topcoat. For outdoor projects, use exterior-rated primer, paint or stain, and sealer so the piece stands up to the weather.